Warm Italian-style trattoria is a grand tribute to Bacchus

bacco trattoriaThe space last occupied by La Scala has been transformed into a warm, Italian-style trattoria that is part wine bar, part restaurant and part deli. And the sum of its parts is delicious.

The pleasing ambience features dark woods, brick, white linens and a tile mosaic of Bacchus, the restaurant's namesake and the Roman god of wine. His influence begins with a robust wine list, extends to the wine sauces that grace several entrees, and ends at the beautiful wine bar where you can enjoy the fruit of the vine.

Lunch is always a busy time at Bacco's as the denizens of the adjacent office buildings stream out searching for sustenance. It's also a great time to have one of their terrific chopped salads -- finely chopped lettuce, mozzarella, Genoa salami (or tuna, or turkey) and garbanzo beans all dressed in Chef Vito's dressing, a seasoned oil and vinegar. Be warned though, these salads can be addictive.

Lunchtime is also a good time to check out the deli, which occupies about a quarter of the restaurant. There are hot prepared foods ready-to-go, like lasagna and penne with marinara. But don't over look the sandwiches. I had the roast beef and cheese topped with lettuce, tomato and horseradish sauce and it was very good. Soft bread, ample sliced roast beef and a piquant sauce.

The dinner menu offers a range of Italian dishes -- pasta, pizza, risotto, chicken, beef and veal. You might also notice that the chef makes good use of wild mushrooms -- apparently not to be confused with the more sedate variety -- in many dishes.

For an appetizer, we tried the polenta flan with Gorgonzola cheese and wild mushrooms. It was interesting, with the soft texture you'd expect and the wild and crazy mushrooms were delicious in a savory sauce. But the promised Gorgonzola was so subtle that it had disappeared. Disappointing, since that is what had drawn us to the dish.

The char-grilled salmon over sautéed spinach with a lemon sauce was very good. The soft, warm bed of lightly sautéed spinach provided a perfect contrast of palate and color with the fish and the lemon sauce drew them together.

The New York steak with garlic sauce was also good, but not as well-balanced a dish as the salmon. And the fact that the vegetable medley came out barely warm didn't help.