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Salerno's a great taste of Italy

Dining Out

July 08, 2006|By Bill Scollon

Salerno's Italian Café on Riverside Drive in Burbank specializes in satisfying the lunchtime cravings of the denizens of nearby studios and offices. But its menu extends beyond office hours, offering both breakfast and dinner.

The breakfast menu is topped by a terrific breakfast combo burrito. Egg, cheese, hash browns and three meats ? ham, bacon and sausage ? are rolled up in a soft tortilla and served with salsa.

Very tasty and so much meat inside that dogs began to howl when I bit into it. (I'm not kidding!) I especially appreciate that the burrito's ingredients were evenly spread from stem to stern, making each bite satisfying.

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Other items for breakfast include omelets, breakfast sandwiches, pancakes and French toast. The French toast, by the way, is another excellent choice ? soft bread dipped in an egg mixture and cooked gently in a pan, sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Just right. I also sampled a piece of coffee cake, but can't recommend it. The piece I had was dense and Sahara-dry.

The lunch menu ? which is the same for dinner ? travels the familiar Italian route from pizza to pasta to salads to sandwiches, but makes a few side trips to Chinese chicken salad, a Greek plate and a Philly steak sandwich. Salerno's makes a good southern Italian-style pizza. The crust is thick and doughy with a slightly sweet sauce and a variety of toppings. I especially like that you can get it by the slice.

Salad choices are not extensive but the ingredients are fresh and flavorful. The chicken Caesar features the traditional romaine lettuce, croutons and creamy dressing and is topped with a generous helping of sliced, grilled chicken breast. I also like Salerno's Greek plate ? stuffed grape leaves, hummus, fresh tabouli, sliced cucumbers and tomatoes served with soft pita bread. I find it to be a refreshing change of pace when I fall into a ho-hum lunch slump.

Salerno's really hits its stride when it comes to sandwiches. I tried the recently added turkey pesto cranberry sandwich and thought it was great. The savory flavor of the basil pesto, paired with the sweetness of cranberry, was a great complement to the sliced turkey. Served on a good-quality hoagie roll, this sandwich inspired me to add pesto to my day-after-Thanksgiving sandwiches.

They also make a mean BLT ? bacon, lettuce and tomato ? on a hoagie roll that is packed with bacon and is big enough to share. Hot sandwiches include pastrami, chicken Parmesan and burgers.

Don't let all those office workers keep all the good stuff for themselves. Stop by Salerno's at any time of day to satisfy your craving for flavor, freshness and fair prices.

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