DINING OUT:Zeke's initiates weekend breakfasts

Breakfast in Glendale is booming. There are lots of places you can find a fine breakfast, but one of the newest is one of the best.

On our way to Zeke's Smokehouse to try their new Country Breakfast, people were spilling out onto the sidewalks of other local restaurants, but Zeke's 4-month-old secret wasn't out to everyone yet. Seating was available inside and out, and a few smart people were enjoying this new treat.

At first, I wasn't surprised — that fabulous smoky smell had me thinking more about lunch than breakfast. We slid into a booth while country music was cheerfully playing (if that isn't an oxymoron) and ordered good coffee — not too strong — and pulpy, sweet orange juice.

The main menu items are named after the chefs, the owners, one of the owner's sons and a dog! It's not a large menu but definitely a countrified one!

Uncle Kirk has his Eggs Benedict ($10.95), and Mama Felicia specializes in Huevos Rancheros (also $10.95) with a cheese quesadilla and guacamole. Lighter offerings run from steel cut oatmeal ($5.95) or seasonal fruit with mint ($7.95) to fabulous Apple Cider Doughnut Holes (six for $2.50). These crunchy, sweet, moist, cinnamony little treats make you wish for the rest of the doughnut whole!

I was surprised not to see pancakes on the menu, but they are included in a 2x2x2 special with eggs and thick bacon. They are hearty and crispy — no wimpy pancakes here — and are served with a light, real-maple syrup. The French toast and omelets also are on the specials board according to Chef Pablo's daily whim. Our Baby Joe's Omelet ($9.95) was made of egg whites by special request, and filled with big chunks of ham and lots of cheese. It comes with a choice of cheese grits, or those great country potatoes with herbs, onions and peppers. Maybe it's the roasted Golden Yukon potatoes that make them so super. Papa Pablo's French Toast du jour was pecan ($7.95). Served with a maple-y sauce, it was intense and sweet like a good pecan pie, and simply covered in nuts.

Now, I don't order biscuits and gravy very often. Quite rarely, in fact, in spite of my love for them. And I know that people rarely agree on the perfect biscuits and gravy — like the right way to do a pizza crust, or a Philly Cheesesteak. But these are the perfect Country Breakfast biscuits and gravy (breakfast $9.95, one biscuit with gravy a la carte $5.95). These biscuits are obviously homemade and hold their own in the robust peppery-creamy sausage gravy, staying crispy and never getting soggy.

These were well worth waiting for!

Like any other time at Zeke's Smokehouse, the service is friendly but not pesky. Everyone was helpful, even if not overly attentive. So hurry in while it's still quiet. I can't imagine that, with food like this, it'll stay a secret for very long.